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Appliqué methods
The main methods of appliqué are:
- hand appliqué
- needle turn appliqué
- naïve appliqué using buttonhole decorative stitch
- hand or machine appliqué using a stabilizer
- reverse appliqué
- machine appliqué (traditionally or by a freehand method).
The traditional principles of appliqué applied in a non-traditional way
Hand appliqué using a paper template
The use of a paper pattern ensures a good smooth edge to stitch to the background fabric. The aim is to attach the appliqué using small vertical invisible stitches.
- Create a paper pattern template (in mirror reverse) of the design you wish to appliqué.
- Pin the pattern in place on the wrong side of your choice of fabric. (If using freezer paper iron into place.)
- Cut out the shape leaving a 6 mm seam allowance all around clipping into any concave areas.
- Turn the seam allowance over onto the paper and tack (temporary medium hand stitches) through the two fabric and one paper layer. Double stitch to finish.
- Press the patch to give a good edge finish.
- Remove the tacking and paper template.
- Tack the prepared patch onto the background fabric.
- Use a fine needle, blind hem stitch around the appliqué patch making sure you place the needle vertically down from the last stitch. In this way the stitches will blend with the background fabric. It is important to match the thread colour to the patch colour not the background colour.
Hand appliqué using freezer paper. Courtesy: M. Johnson
Needle turn appliqué using freezer paper
This technique uses freezer paper to act as a guide when appliquéing.
- Using a cardboard or templastic template, trace the mirror-reversed appliqué design to the paper side of the freezer paper. Cut out the design.
- Iron the gloss side of the freezer paper to the face side of the fabric. If desired, stay-stitch, either by hand or by machine, or mark lightly with pencil on the line of the paper. Trim approximately 5 mm away from the freezer paper or stay-stitch.
- Very carefully, clip the fabric almost to the line on curves and on inside points.
- Turn the raw edge to the underside of the paper and carefully finger press or iron. Remove the freezer paper.
- With the right side of the fabric facing, hand baste the raw edge in place and attach the design piece to the background, remove the hand basting thread.
- Use a fine needle, blind hem stitch around the patch making sure you place the needle vertically down from the last stitch. In this way the stitches will blend with the background fabric. It is important to match the thread colour to the patch colour not the background colour.
Needle turn appliqué. Courtesy: M. Johnson
Naïve appliqué using fusible web and buttonhole stitch as a decorative hand stitch
Buttonhole Stitch Appliqué was popular in the 1800s and early 1900s. Buttonhole stitch is used to appliqué today as it gives an antique, folk or naïve appeal to textile work. The highly visible decorative edge resembles blanket stitching by hand.
The stitch width and length depend on what looks best with your fabrics and thread. Smaller stitches (1.5 mm) prevent fraying on fused patches and are easier when stitching around small or complex shapes. Big patches, however, look better with longer and wider stitches.
- Trace the mirror-reversed pattern pieces onto the paper side of the Vliesoflex (fusible webbing that has paper on one side).
- Cut out the traced design about 1 cm from the line.
- With the paper side up, iron onto the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out the design on the traced line.
- Peel off the paper backing and iron design in place on the background fabric.
- Choose a thread that either matches or is in contrast. (Top stitch machine thread or a pearl cotton). Begin with a small knot at the back of the work and bring the needle up from the back positioning the needle at the edge of the appliqué shape. Insert the needle 5 mm above on the background fabric then bring the needle up into appliqué patch about 6 mm to the left so the stitch will be straight and no more than 6 mm long. Wrap the thread from the needle anticlockwise around the needle tip. Bring the needle up and tension the thread against the appliqué.
- Stitch in a ‘northwards’ and anticlockwise direction. Taking the needle up about 5 mm insert the needle down into the background fabric and up into the appliqué about .6 mm to the left, wrap the thread from the needle around the needle tip in an anticlockwise direction pull the needle through and tension the thread against the appliqué. Continue around the shape until the first stitch is reached. After completing the final stitch insert the needle into the first stitch at the edge of the patch and knot off the thread under the patch on the back.
Naïve appliqué using buttonhole stitch. Courtesy: M. Johnson
Hand or machine appliquéusing a stabilizersuch as Solvy™
This method is excellent for creating leaf shapes. The lined motif is pressed and appliquéd to the background fabric.
Trace the design pieces on to a stabilizer such as Solvy™ (final design will be reverse). Place stabilizer with traced design on the right side of the design fabric. Sew on the marked line by hand or by machine using a small stitch. Trim around the attached stabilizer fabric designs leaving a 4 mm seam allowance. Carefully clip the seam allowances almost up to the sewn line on inner points and curves. Make a small slit in the stabilizer and turn the fabric design and stabilizer right side out. Use a point turner or other blunt instrument to help push all the points and curves into shape. Press lightly on the fabric side with a dry iron. After completing the appliqué wash in cool water to remove the Solvy™. If using other soft stabilizers can remain in the work.
Reverse appliqué
For reverse appliqué, shapes are cut from a fabric and applied to the reverse of the face fabric. The face fabric is then cut to expose the applied layer of fabric beneath.
View two reversed appliqué quilts 
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Machine appliqué
Machine appliqué is a quick and easy alternative to hand appliqué. The sewing machine can be used to open new creative possibilities in the appliqué technique.
Traditional machine stitches such as machine blind hem, satin stitch and any of the fancy stitches can be used to apply the motif to the background fabric.
Traditional stitches can also be used in a contemporary approach to machine appliqué.
One of the best stabilizers for machine appliqué is Vliesoflex. Before machining, the motif should be fixed using the Vliesoflex method.
For a machine satin stitch finish, sew with one stitch next to the patch edge and the side stitch dipping into the patch. For secure corners, the side stitch will fall at an angle. Turn the hand wheel and move the fabric manually to maneuver the corner.
For freehand machine appliqué, follow the machine instructions, e.g. drop dog feed, lower tension slightly and attach freehand machine foot. When using any of the machine embroidery threads available change the machine needle to one with a larger eye, e.g. top stitch needle or metalfil.
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Appliqué and freehand machine embroidery. Courtesy: M. Johnson
An array of beautiful threads from the machine embroidery range can be accessed for example, Madeira variegated machine embroidery cotton thread .
The traditional principles of appliqué applied in a non-traditional way
Consider ways you can create contemporary designs using traditional appliqué techniques – like the following example.
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 Appliqué and freehand machine embroidery. Courtesy: M. Johnson |
Activity
View contemporary works completed by Australian textile artist Susan Matthews:
- http://www.ozquiltnetwork.org.au/index.php/australia-wide-online-exhibition/view-australia-wide-quilts.html
- http://aus.dragonflyfarm.net/images/P6280178.JPG
Look closely at how the layering of traditional techniques, such as patchwork, appliqué and machine embroidery are used to make and decorate fabrics.
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