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Shisha embroidery
Shisha or embroidery with mirrors is a classic Indian textile art form.
The use of Shisha, or mirror work, in embroidery stems from three Islamic beliefs: the first, that mirrors will trap the evil eye and hold its reflection for eternity; the second, that mirrors will ward off the evil eye by reflecting it away from the wearer, and the third that mirrors will dazzle the evil eye so that it will either go blind or, at the very least, blink and miss you. In any event, you can be confident that when wearing mirror work embroidery, evil spirits will not trouble you.
The word shisha means little glass in Hindi and the origins of shisha work can be traced back to India and the reign of Shah Jehan (1628 - 1658) who built the Taj Mahal in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. She, in turn, is credited with originating the technique of using mirrors in embroidery, although before this time, pieces of mica or shiny beetle wings had been used in a similar way.
Traditional shisha mirrors are made from blown glass which is silvered on the back and then broken into various sizes and shapes. . .
The positioning of mirrors within embroidery also bears a specific symbolic meaning. They are widely used to represent the centre of flowers and the eyes of animals, and in the decorative hangings of Kathiawar, they depict the ears of the sun god Surya and the breasts of Krishna's consort, Radha. Above all, mirrors are placed to serve as a strategic focal point within a design and are seldom scattered randomly for mere decoration. . .
Different Muslim clans and Hindu sub-castes use the mirrors in specific design forms as a hallmark of their beliefs. . .Other castes base their designs on the earth goddess, but throughout all cultures the use of mirrors derives from their protective value. (Coss, 1996: 64 - 65)
Shisha embroidery
Shisha work can be produced on any medium to heavy weight fabric and is particularly successful on a firm woven background. Mirrors are attached by securing them within a tight framework of simple stitches and the rough edges of a shisha mirror help to hold the mirrors in place. Contrary to popular belief, glue is not used to attach the mirrors.
The secret of keeping the mirrors in place is to stitch a solid framework of straight stitches which virtually covers the mirror face. This is then pulled aside by the cretan stitches leaving the mirror exposed in the centre. Buttonhole stitch can also be worked as a decorative surround and detached chain will provide you with a flower-type motif and hold the mirror firmly in position. (Coss, 1996: 68)
Coss, M. (1996) Mirror, Mirror, Handmade, Vol 12, no 3, pp. 64 - 69.
Basic instructions for Shisha stitch
Coss, M. (1996) Mirror, Mirror, Handmade, Vol 12, no 3, pp. 64 - 69.
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